In Part B I showed how I lace the piece.
In Part C I showed how I put everything together in the frame.
In Part D, the last post in this series, I will show how I finish the back of the frame, attach the hanger hardware and apply the bumpers.
This is how I do it. What works for me.
For the last part of framing a piece, I will use a double sided tape dispenser, a piece of brown packing paper, a utility knife, pencil and tape measure, hanger hardware and in this case it's a sawtooth hanger, a hammer and bumper points or pads.
I bought my double sided tape dispenser from Amazon. The bumper points/pads are also a purchase from Amazon. These come in a variety of shapes, colors and textures. Mine are rubber, clear and circular.
First thing I do is run a line of tape on all four sides. I don't tape at the edge or near the opening of my frame, kind of in the middle.
All four sides done.
I take the piece of brown paper and starting at the top, I lay it along the top side first. I smooth out the paper from the center out, mindful of the stickiness along the sides. Once the top is done, I work down my frame, side to side, going slowly, smoothing out the paper as I go. I don't want wrinkles, bubbles, open areas in the paper. I want a nice smooth finish. I take my time.
All four sides are done. I then go back to the top and do another smooth and press down all four sides. I run my hands left to right and press firmly on the paper that is on top of the tape. I want a tight seal. The purpose of the paper on the frame is to keep the dust and lint out.
If my piece was such that I didn't have to use spacers and I had enough room in the rabbet of my frame, I would have covered my stitching with a piece of matte board instead of paper and used points to secure everything in the frame.
Paper works. Brown paper is strong.
Now I trim the paper off the frame. I run my fingers down each side to give me a crease and then I use my utility knife to cut the paper. I cut in about 1/4" from the edge, give or take. Not too close to the edge, but then again, not too far in that I cut into the tape. I am trimming so it looks nice and neat on the back and at the same time keeping the width of the tape intact.
TIP: Have a sharp blade in the knife. If not, paper fuzzies show up on the sticky tape.
All trimmed. Looks good.
TIP: If I do accidentally cut into the tape and tape residue is left showing when I remove the paper, I just rub my finger along the frame and the tape balls up and is easy to remove.
Using my tape measure, I mark the center at the top of my frame.
I select a hanger.
For this piece, a simple sawtooth hanger will work. My framed picture is long and narrow. It's not very heavy. A sawtooth hanger will do just fine. If my framed piece was heavier or larger I would use something else.
I have used hangers shown on the left. I now use hangers shown on the right. So much easier to attach to the frame. Saves my fingers and my sanity. Trying to nail wee little nails without bending the hanger...as I said...the other hanger is good...for me.
I match the center of the hanger with the penciled x and attach to the frame. The wood in this frame is soft. I don't need to prep a hole for the hanger. If I had to, I would use a nail, tap a couple of times for a "starting hole" and then nail in my hanger.
After the hanger is on, I attach my bumper pads. I attach them (they are adhesive on the back) to the highest point along the bottom of my frame. These pads will help keep my frame from sliding along the wall. It protects the back side of my frame. Nice.
On the wall and looking good. I'm a happy camper.
POM Series 11/14 to 04/15 Life is a Gift
28ct Beige Jobelan, DMC, WDW, Classic Colorworks, ThreadWorx and
Glissengloss Rainbow Blending Threads, Suggested Embellishments
Stitched 2 over 2
Started - 04/24/17
Number of Days Spent Stitching on This - 35
Mounted, Laced and Framed By - Myself - 09/24/17
Hangs in Living Room With Other (3) Stoney Creek Pattern of the Month Finishes